It may seem odd to consider Asian food “comfort food”, but that’s what it is for many of us here in Rhode Island. We tend to find a favorite Asian restaurant and settle in on it, making it our standard. We know the menu, we know in advance what we will probably order, and after a while we even get to know the restaurant staff. But in our determination to expand our horizons, we visited Lemongrass in Warwick.
I’ve driven past Lemongrass, with its crisp exterior for years… decades even… but never stopped for dinner. It’s always been highly recommended, both by online reviewers and our personal contacts, so for a recent date night my wife and I decided to give it a try.
The crisp exterior carries on into the interior, with a polished modern feel. Colored lights and glass dominate, not to the garish “atmosphere above all else” level that some upscale restaurants go to, but enough that it was clear that we had stepped above the level of Chinese Zodiac placemats, cardboard takeout boxes, and giant lighted photos of the Great Wall.
Arriving a little later than normal dinnertime, we were seated quickly. Up front, a formal takeout section made it clear that a lot of their business was from diners bringing their dinners home to eat. Just beyond a formal sushi bar with chefs hard at work creating an array of delights. Beyond, past our dining area, a function room can hold 110 feasting diners. Our booth was in the first alcove to the right.
Lemongrass’ menu is considered “Asian fusion”. About half of the menu is the familiar Cantonese Chinese that dominates Rhode Island Chinese restaurants’ menus — dishes like General Tso’s Chicken and fried rice. The other half delves into Southeast Asian, with foods like Nime Chow and Chicken Tom Yam Soup.
Southeast Asian foods are characterized by their spicy, aromatic flavors, often achieved through the use of spices such as coriander, turmeric, and licorice-like Thai basil. Staples like lemongrass also play a vital role in creating the region’s distinctive flavor profile. In addition to their spice level, Southeast Asian dishes often feature lightly-cooked vegetables and a prominent use of noodles, distinguishing them from many Chinese dishes. However, there is considerable overlap between the two cuisines, with some Southeast Asian dishes sharing similarities with mainstream American-based Chinese foods.
We only occasionally find ourselves in a restaurant with Vietnamese foods, so I eagerly ordered nime chow, soft rice noodles, bean sprouts, and lettuce, topped with a little basil and shrimp, wrapped in an equally soft rice paper, served with a sweet and tart peanut sauce. I can (and have) made a meal from multiple orders of these delicious, wrapped delights alone, but I wanted to save some room for an entree.
Alas, no pho soup on the menu, but I ordered another of my favorite Vietnamese dishes, shrimp bee bong — soft wheat noodles, fresh vegetables like cucumber and carrots, coconut milk, fresh lettuce, and shrimp served with more of that peanut sauce and topped with a spring roll.
My wife was impressed by her order, Three Delights. It was beef, pork, and shrimp fried with Chinese vegetables and served in a basket of shredded potatoes. I can tell you that it was delicious since half of it went home with us for my lunch the next day.
Oh, there was so much more on the menu. We didn’t have sushi, we didn’t try the lo mein or the moo shu or the banh hoi or any of the dishes that were marked with spicy chili peppers. Those will have to wait for future visits.
Yes, there will be future visits, if we can break our habit of staying with the familiar place down the street.
You can find Lemongrass in Warwick at 1138 Post Road, north of the airport. Visit them online at www.lemongrassri.com
