I may never completely know sushi. It's a thing of constant invention, a matter of visual art as well as the art of taste and texture, so as soon as I learn about the flavors and colors of one kind of sushi, creative chefs have invented even more. I know that I'll never know sushi as well as Haruki Kibe, the owner of Haruki Japanese Restaurant.

Okay, so you hear "sushi" and think "raw fish". The blinders go on and you're ready to skip on to something different. That's the same attitude that kept you from enjoying asparagus or avocados when you were a kid -- think of all those years wasted not enjoying some of the greatest foods on the planet. If your pallet takes its adventure in tiny steps, begin with something vegetarian or fully cooked.

The cappa rolls have nothing more exotic on them than cucumbers. If you've already tried eggrolls from Stop-n-Shop, you probably tried the California roll, made with avacado and crab sticks.

Add a touch of sinus-clearing wasabi green mustard paste, some spicy-sweet pickled ginger, and the salty taste of soy sauce and you've experienced sushi.

See, it's not too difficult to get started. In no time you'll be trying dozens of varieties of sushi, from tame veggie-only sushi to exotic sushi made with fish livers or squids.

You don't have to start with a boat full of sushi. (Literally a boat. They fill up a boat-shaped serving tray for large orders.) Beginners should start with a Bento box. Rather than the pre-packaged fastfood meals that Japanese find convenient for lunch at a baseball game (or a sumo wrestling match), the bento box at Haruki includes a few pieces of non-adventurous sushi (tuna, shrimp, whitefish), miso soup, green salad, and a choice of teriaki, katsu, or tempura.

If you add a bowl of boiled "edame" green soybean pods or "oshinko" pickled vegetables (and maybe a Japanese beer), you've experienced Japan.

Drinking is a part of the sushi experience. The original sushi was developed as a convenient fingerfood for a wealthy gentleman who wanted to drink and gamble without having to stop to eat. Sushi is Japanese "pub grub" -- food you order at bars. Some of the bars can be exotic and elaborate, but even modest bars in Japan feature sushi. Patrons overload their sushi with wasabi paste and reach immediately for another gulp of saki or beer.

So carrying on the Japanese tradition, sushi in the US is primarily the realm of sushi bars. Haruki has a comfortable bar where the sushi chefs stand directly across from you as they make their creations. You can watch them roll and spread and cut, creating art that you eat.

Haruki finds a great balance between their sushi bar and table dining. If you're interested in more than sushi or a bento box, then take your time at a table.

Once you leave the realm of sushi, you're really exploring Japanese food. If you want to start "safe", start with the tempura -- deep fried and crispy, but much lighter than you'd probably experienced in a Chinese restaurant.

A large bowl of nabeyaki-udon soup, with thick square noodles in a soy broth can make a wonderful meal. Crispy shrimp tempura sit on the side of the bowl, while chicken, scallops, shrimp, and even an egg join the noodles on the inside.

Or try the beef negima -- a thin slice of beef rolled with cheese and scallions served steaming in a thick teriyaki sauce.

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Whatever you try, take your time to enjoy the experience of tasting something new -- how often can you find something new that you've never tried before? Be fearless. You'll surprise yourself with delicious tastes and wonderful textures that Haruki brings to Rhode Island.

I heartily recommend Haruki for anyone wanting to know sushi the way they do in Japan.

Haruki is at 1210 Oaklawn Avenue (Route 5) in Cranston, just a few blocks from Warwick Mall. Their phone is 401/463-8338. Expect a wait on Friday and Saturday evenings.

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