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Rhode Island Roads
The online magazine of travel, life, dining, and entertainment for people who love Rhode Island |
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Miss Fannie's Soul Food Kitchen, Providence
By Paul Pence
By now you know that I'm from the South and that as much as I love seafood and pasta and spinach pies and Del's lemonade, a hunger for the flavors of my youth still visits now and then. I think I found a place that can help those hunger pangs to rest with food for my soul. I've discovered Miss Fannie's Soul Food Kitchen.
I could smell chicken and greens and potato salad and ribs and cabbage and cornbread and... ... well ... I could smell the South.
The hot food is in a glass-front deli steam table. Okay, here's a little bit of trivia you may not know about the South. Southerners LOVE cafeterias because they can look at what they're getting up front. Little mom-and-pop restaurants, particularly in Mississippi/Alabama/Arkansas frequently have steam tables like this.
Behind the counter was Miss Fannie. Short and round, with a bright spirit despite the long days she puts in, she reminded me of my childhood -- my best friend Carl's mother perhaps, who would welcome us into her home on steamy summer afternoons with popsicles made from frozen Koolaid and who always seemed to be cooking something delicious.
The back of Miss Fannie's menu told her story. I can't do better than to use her own words...
Back in Alabama, we had left the stand that Mr. Murray built for our family. You see, we had our own place of business down South. From that stand, we used to sell fish sandwiches, soda pop, chips, etc. Since those days, my mother and her friend Henrietta gave me the drive and encouragement to think about my own restaurant some day.
During the 70's, I was always entertaining friends, probably due to my "southern hospitality". I think my oldest son, Don, who was and still is an inspiration to me, rembered those days when he got older. He and many other Brown University students invited me to be a part of "Mamma Etta's Chitlin Circuit" at the Rites and Reason theatre. My cooking blew the campus away! Betty Sullivan and her staff helped me prepare for the event.
After graduating from Brown, Don became and artist-in-residence at AS220 and started a community-based weekly program called Xxodus, featuring Miss Fanie's Soul Food Kitchen, where it was rumored that you could smell my fried chicken from as far as the Holiday Inn! From that experience I began to cater out in the community for numerous occasions. Don Went on to become the founder of the Providence Black Repertory Company where Miss Fannie's is still featured at verious programs and special events.
And Miss Fannie had something delicious for us.
My plate featured potato salad, collard greens, and roasted chicken. Linda tried the ribs and cabbage. She had a second side dish, but she ate it so fast I don't notice what it was. We each got a big square of wonderfully moist cornbread.
The flavors were exactly like my childhood memoies insisted they be like. And for a while, my cravings for Southern food were abated. But after looking over her menu and thinking about the other Southern dishes she serves, I hear the new cravings whispering "catfish... catfish..."
We recommend Miss Fannie's for anyone looking for a casual and interesting lunch near Downcity Providence. Miss Fannie's is at 242 Broad Street in Providence. That's about a third of a mile from I-95 and downtown, right on a corner. She's serving food for the soul Wednesdays through Saturdays, starting at 11:30 and well into the evening each day. Call 401/861-3006 for directions or catering.
Sadly, Miss Fanny has closed her restaurant. But happily, she still caters! Give her a call at 401/861-3006.
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