There are two problems you'll have to deal with if you want to enjoy the amazing calzones from Jeanette's Pastry in Providence.

The first is finding the place. Chances are you'll drive right by the fading sign hanging over the unassuming storefront on Branch Ave. The "Jeanette's" portion of the sign has weather-worn to a memory of pale pink, and the bold black "Pastry" has lost a lot of its bravado. If you don't already know about it, you'll likely assume that it's a place that used to be open.

Even once you've found it and gone inside, you may still think you're in the wrong place. The small space--certainly no more than 10 feet deep and maybe barely that wide--boasts two empty display cases and a bunch of equally empty shelves. A tray of pizza squares waits on a counter top. And that's it. But not to worry--all the good stuff comes from the kitchen out back, behind the one other door in the place.

The second problem is getting there in time. Jeanette's is open from 7 a.m. until "whenever we run out," which the owners say is usually around 2 p.m. But the fact is, if you haven't called in your order by 9:30 a.m.--you can wait until 10, but that's pushing it--you probably won't get your calzone at all.

Which is sad, because you'll be missing out on a delicious, homemade treat that is the textbook definition of cheap eats. The top price for one of Jeanette's hand-rolled calzones is $4.25, with most falling in the $3 to $3.50 range. But don't let the price fool you--these are big, loaded, flavorful calzones that will easily make a lunch and a half.

The chicken parm is tender and moist and accented wonderfully, like many others here, with the bakery's homemade sauce. Try the spinach and cheese, the stuffed pizza with sausage, pepperoni, sauce, and roasted peppers, or the pickled pepper pig--sausage, cheese, and pickled peppers--all in a baked crust that's light and chewy, with just enough oil still beading the surface to make a wax paper wrapper a welcome accessory.

Yes, it's hard to find. Yes, you may not get fed if you don't beat those in the know, the locals who call early,

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get there on time, and leave the car running outside for the quick grab-and-go service. But when you do, you'll certainly come back to Jeanette's Pastry.

Jeanette's, open Monday through Saturday, is located at 348 Branch Ave. in Providence. The phone number is 401-521-1440.

John Shanahan is a freelance writer living in Norton, MA. His column, "The View From Here," appears regularly in the Norton Mirror, Mansfield News, and Easton Journal. Comments are welcome at jcshanahan@hotmail.com

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