Far down Atwell's Avenue, beyond the pasta-and-red-sauce stalwarts of Federal Hill, a Mexican treat awaits. Don Jose Tequila's serves up superb authentic Mexican cuisine in a subtle, relaxing atmosphere.

Burnt-ochre walls and tables plastered with Mexican postcards and advertisements set the scene. Latin music (perhaps a bit on the loud side) adds to the setting. And the food completes it.

A chicken breast stuffed with chorizo rests on a bed of smoky mole sauce; grilled shrimps bask in an orange tequila cream sauce; Yucatan-style steamed roast pork gets gently cooked in plaintain leaves and dressed with a spicy achiote sauce. Throw a couple top-shelf margaritas into the mix and you've got a meal that's miles away from typical Federal Hill fare.

I love good Mexican cuisine, and the food at Don Jose Tequila's simply knocked me down. A few years back I enjoyed some fine authentic stuff down in Texas--I was in Graham, just outside of Dallas--and my meal here was easily on par with that. My dinner companion lives near a taqueria run by a man who jaunts off to Mexico each year to re-study the cuisine and bring back ideas, and she said it easily matches his top-notch offerings.

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Picking from the menu was tough--so much looked so good. Even simple things like chimis and enchiladas were in contention. And decent prices--$40 for the two of us with one app, two entrees, and three margaritas. And the salsa that comes with the chips--I think it had a poblano base--was the best I've tasted in a long while, with a sweet, lasting burn. I recommend it highly.

Don Jose Tequilas is at 351 Atwells Avenue in Providence. They have no website, but you can call them at 401/454-8951. There is another excellent review of this restaurant at ProJo and a detailed description at DigitalCity.

They honor the Dining Adventures discount card and their buy-one-get-one coupon in the Entertainment book.

John Shanahan is a freelance writer living in Norton, MA. His column, "The View From Here," appears regularly in the Norton Mirror, Mansfield News, and Easton Journal. Comments are welcome at jcshanahan@hotmail.com

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