When television networks do it, it's called "Counter Programming" -- doing the unexpected, going against the flow. This month we went dining against the flow. We had mom-and-pop Chinese food on Atwells Avenue, where most people expect to find fine dining Italian. Then we had Mexican food at Mr. Taco's Que Pasa in West Warwick. Here are the lessons we learned about swimming upstream in choosing restaurants.

The choice to eat at Chef Ho was largely due to pricing. The restaurants on Atwells are upscale, among the best that Providence can offer. They're also among the most expensive. But determined to dine in Federal Hill, we found Chef Ho's.

Inside we found a family-run Chinese restaurant, a little place with the expected bar. It was decorated the the usual large-format photographs of China and the tables were topped with the usual Chinese zodiac place mats. Sound typical of inexpensive Asian restaurants? Pretty much it was. Service was top-notch, perhaps because of the restaurant's upscale neighbors. But as typical as the atmosphere was, our food was wonderful -- the vegetable lo-mein had crispy veggies and wide, flat noodles. We asked them to avoid using MSG in our food, so the chef whipped up a bowl of wonton soup from scratch, just for us. Wonderful. Sweet and sour chicken was thinly breaded, with a sauce that was not overpowering.

So the lesson we learned? High-priced restaurants in the area seems to drive up the quality even of the modestly priced restaurants.

Next we went to Mr. Taco's Que Pasa in West Warwick. Mexican food in Rhode Island is a risky, since Rhode Islanders have little experience with good Tex-Mex and don't demand the very best from their restaurants. But I've been to Mr. Taco's many times before and always found them a pretty good option for a dispalced Texan.

For a Rhode Island Mexican restaurant, it's pretty close to what I learned to like while in Texas. It's one of the few places in the Ocean State that you can get a good chile con queso. I've enjoyed their enchiladas and fajitas. This time I ordered smoked barbecue brisket -- a favorite of Texans, no matter where they live.

But this time I learned a different lesson -- when choosing a restaurant that goes against the flow, make sure that you order their specialty. Go with Mr. Taco's enchiladas and tacos, and their chile con queso, of course.

Chef Ho's Chinese Restaurant is at 243 Atwells Avenue in Providence, right in the middle of Federal Hill. Call them at 401/831-0777. They deliver to the local area.

Mr. Taco's Que Pasa is at 49 Providence Street in West Warwick. Call them at 401/828-7573

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