It's tucked way away, in the back corner of Providence's Jewelry District, in an area given over to artists and dreamers, nestled inside the courtyard of the old Imperial Knife factory building. Long-time residents of Providence and people who were part of the Bohemiancoffee-shop scene might remember the restaurant as a place for poetry readings, espresso, and light dining. But even though CAV hasn't moved and still has an atmosphere of artistic expression, the restaurant has grown up into one of the best choices for fine dining in Rhode Island.

CAV's cuisine is described as "fusion", meaning that chef Todd Lesakowski brings togetherfoods and cooking techniques from around the world. The menu includes Asian-inspired sesame Hijiki, fresh cut pastas, dishes with distinct French origins, Middle-Eastern dishes, and even a Creole shrimp remoulade appetizer.

The atmosphere is in perfect harmony with the fusion cuisine. A stage dominates one corner for weekend live music. African art and masks, hand-woven American Indian kilim blankets, wonderfully unexpected lighting, and inspired artwork decorate the walls and tables. And everything is for sale, right down to the stone oil lamps on the tables and the antique rosewood chairs.

As interesting as the antiques and art are, the food is even more so. Chef Lesakowski was practically raised in gourmet restaurant kitchens, and worked for the Gothem Bar and Grill in New York and for Fanny's in Boston before coming to CAV in 2001. His creativity and talent has resulted in CAV's remarkable Chef Specialties.

Lesakowski's favorite, the brazed lamb shank takes three hours to cook. He serves it with Moroccan pearl couscous and acorn squash custard in a red wine raisin sauce.

Butter poached lobster

A more pedestrian entree appeals to many diners -- the Dayboat Cod would seem familiar to Rhode Islanders who seldom confront venison and duck at the dinner table. The cod is braised and is served with an ever-changing ragout of seasonal vegetables and roasted garlic mashed potatoes.

The dishes are frequently presented in vertical stacked towers, so even a salad is a delight to the eyes. Imagine a salad made of black mission figs wrapped in a savory parma prosciutto, covered with baby greens and sour apples, topped with a goat cheese fondue, then lightly kissed with a dressing of fig balsamico and extra virgin olive oil, constructed in a tower taller than it is wide.

We highly recommend CAV for people looking for fine dining with a touch of whimsy. You can find CAV at 14 Imperial Place. Phone 751-9164. Entrees are priced from $16 to $29.

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