Throughout the summer, Newport attracts more than its share of boaters, but when the "Tall Ships" were in port, every Rhode Islander who can pilot a boat, drive a car, or catch a public bus is drawn to Newport. Not that the famous seaport needs the giant sailing ships to attract visitors, but it just feels so right that the historic ships and their modern brethren come to visit.

Sailing across Rhode Island's Narragansett Bay to Newport seemed the ideal, most fitting, way to see the Tall Ships. The Brandaris, a vintage shallow-draft ship, made an excellent choice with its distinctive and stable hull, curved-top mailsail, and luxuriously appointed interior featuring a working fireplace. Occasionally, an errant wave would slap against the rounded bow, but most of the time the Brandaris rocked rhythmically at a tempo even a "landlubber" could handle, no worse than riding a horse. But approaching Newport Harbor, the chaotic wakes of passing speedboats occasionally forced even the seasoned crew of the ship to sneak out a hand to steady themselves.

Within the harbor, the crew stowed Brandaris's mainsail. The 63-foot ship chugged through the complex boat traffic lanes, courtesy of its vintage motor. The harbormaster and coast guard did their best to maintain order, routing boats counterclockwise, past and between sailboats and Tall Ships, huge motor cruisers, tiny inflatables, one-man kayaks, and over-powered ski boats.

We passed boats packed with gawking tour groups and heard their tour guide announce, "Passing on our starboard is the 63-foot Brandaris. It was built in 1938 in the Netherlands where it helped the original owners escape the Nazi occupation. It later assisted in the evacuation of Dunkirk, rescuing over a hundred British soldiers. It has a draft of only three feet and uses lee boards rather than a centerboard when sailing." The tourists waved, we waved. They took pictures of us, we took pictures of them. The atmosphere around the harbor felt much like cruising in a '57 Chevy convertible down main street, where looking was only half the reason for being there.

The Tall Ships awaited. In all, 50 ships constituted the official fleet, but countless other B and C class sailing craft made Newport Harbor and nearby Narragansett Bay a forest of masts and sails. With too many ships to even list, here are a few highlights.

Largest of the fleet was the Kruzenshtern from Russia. At 372 feet, this black-hulled mammoth is the second largest sailing ship in the world. It moored well away from the heavy traffic and piers of Newport and received only those guests who could sail out to meet her. When the term "Tall Ship" was invented, it must have been for a bark like this with its four towering masts and sails that cover 39,300 square feet..

Brazil's Cisne Branco (White Swan) sparkled with gold gilding on its white, 255-foot length. The Cisne Branco is no antique, despite being a three-masted sailing ship, it was built to commemorate the 500th anniversary of the arrival of Europeans in Brazil. The sailors on this maiden voyage seemed to enjoy the attention that their ship gave them, waving enthusiastically from port holes and from dizzying heights of masts.

The Juan Sebastian de Elcano, the Spanish Navy's training ship, had moored at a nearby US Navy dock. Visitors to this 305-foot schooner were welcomed with crisp military decorum and enough spit-and-polish among the midshipmen to make Ferdinand Magellan proud.

Once on land, visitors to Newport could visit some of the ships and chat with their crews. There they could learn with amazement what the crew of the original 1757 HMS Rose had to undergo in a sea voyage from the crew of the 179-foot reproduction built in 1970. Or they could listen to the crew of the Irish ship Asgard II freely mix Gaelic words with their English as they spoke of sailing the North Sea in their green and gold ship.

After touring the ships, visitors find themselves within a short stroll of some of Newport's finest shops, museums, and restaurants. But before long, they'll find themselves back at the waterfront.

One of the greatest things about harbors like Newport's is their water taxi. Even visitors arriving by car can get out on the water, if only to get from Bowen's Wharf and its shops and restaurants, to Goat Island with the modern Hyatt Regency or even to Jamestown across the bay or historic Fort Adams.

Fort Adams, in particular, is an excellent choice of locations to visit, because the water taxi drop-off is right at the Museum of Yachting. Fans of the America's Cup, in particular, will love the exhibit of memorabilia, with models and photographs of a half-century of America's Cup races at Newport. The classic yachts in the basin outside including the light green Courageous, a yacht that won the Americas cup in 1974 and 1977, and "Catboats" -- shallow draft boats with trapezoidal sails designed for Rhode Island waterways.

Even after the Tall Ships leave, Newport still has its own, hometown fleet of sailing vessels that make sail-watching enjoyable all summer. The Providence, a sloop with a square topmast and a 110-foot length is a common sight in Newport, as is the Aurora with its deep red sails and the Compass Rose, which looks like a pirate ship.

Several 12-meter racing yachts also consider Newport home. The American Eagle, Columbia, Heritage, Nefertiti, and Weatherly often slip along the harbor with their colorful hulls low and sleek against the water. These speedy show-offs race each other all summer on Narragansett Bay. But while the tall ships were in port, the crews seemed content to soak in the glory of their past triumphs racing for the America's Cup.

Buy This Art Print At AllPosters.com

And after a long day touring boats, browsing shops, and visiting museums, we found the slow, quiet trip by sail back across the bay was an excellent time to soak in the sunset.

Missed the tall ships in 2000 and 2004? They're coming again to Newport in 2007. Start planning!

About the author, Paul Pence: Not a life-long Rhode Islander, Paul got to Rhode Island as fast as he could. He has 25 years of writing experience and numerous publication credits including the Providence Journal, the East Greenwich Magazine, Weissmann Travel Reports, Travel Lady Magazine, Jackhammer, Your Skin and Sun, TravelNotes, TexWoman, and many others.

Readers Comments About This Page:

Be the first! Add Your Comment!