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Rhode Island Roads
The online magazine of travel, life, dining, and entertainment for people who love Rhode Island |
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By Paul Pence
Henry Wadsworth Longfellow wrote "The Midnight Ride of Paul Revere" and "The Song of Hiawatha". One of his most enduring poems is "The Windmill", which begins "Behold! a giant am I! Aloft here in my tower, With my granite jaws I devour The maize, and the wheat, and the rye, And grind them into flour..."
In 1866, Longfellow bought a house in East Greenwich, Rhode Island
for his friend G.W. Greene, who he was said to have met in Italy
near the tomb of Virgil . Green was a lecturer at
Cronell and Brown universities and happened to be the grandson of
Nathaneal Greene, the celebrated Revolutionary War general.
The
house suited their purposes well, except Longfellow wanted a study
in which he could write when he visited.
In 1870, Longfellow bought a windmill from a neighboring property
and had it moved, attaching it to Greene's house. There, it
provided room for studies for the two friends.
The windmill's windows look west, away from the town and harbor,
toward what then would have been farmland. It's easy to see how
the views from the study could have inspired passages in the poem.
"I look down over the farms; In the fields of grain I see The
harvest that is to be, And I fling to the air my arms, For I know
it is all for me."
And looking away from the town he could only hear the church bells,
not see their spires. "On Sundays I take my rest; Church-going bells
begin Their low, melodious din; I cross my arms on my breast, And
all is peace within."
Many of Longfellow's poems may have been inspired by any New England
village -- the sails of boats, the laughing of children, the flow of
a stream, but it would be difficult to believe that the study in the
windmill tower did not inspire "The Windmill".
The "Windmill Cottage" is a private residence and there are no tours.
But finding the distinctive house makes an excellent excuse to explore
East Greenwich. Longfellow was known to have visited the formal
gardens of the Greene family's homestead, a stone's throw westward
from the Windmill Cottage. This house and gardens are also not open
to tours, but Longfellow had to have traversed the road between the
houses many times.
Perhaps Longfellow shopped along Post Road and King Street or went
down to the harbor to purchase shellfish. Maybe he visited the
Episcopal church with the Greene family. Maybe he sat on the edge
of Sunset Rock and composed poetry. Perhaps. But little documentry
evidence remains, so it's up to the visitor to imagine the East
Greenwich of 1870 and where Longfellow might have been.
Directions to the Windmill Cottage: From I-95 headed south, exit 8
(or 8A if headed north) and turn right onto Route 2 headed east.
At the first traffic light, turn left on Division Street headed
northeast. Stay with the major road, even though it changes names to
First when Division splits off in a minor fork. In two miles, the
road will reach Post Road or US Route 1. If you passed a large
cemetery on the right, you're on the right road. Turn left on Post
Road to head north, onto what locals call "Main Street".
If you're anxious to get back, you can continue on Division, which will
merge back into the main road you came in on. If you have the afternoon,
spend it exploring East Greenwich's Hill and Harbor district, strolling
the streets that Longfellow strolled.
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