I'm frequently tempted by Napa Valley Grille's creative, light, and wonderfully flavorful California Wine Country cuisine -- its delicate seasonings and complex preparations where every ingredient plays its own role, but none dominates to the detriment of the dish make their foods a delight. And when I remember that they have one of the largest wine selections in Rhode Island, an attentive and knowledgeable staff, and a casual atmosphere, the temptation becomes overpowering.

The restaurant's dishes all share the Wine Country temperament -- a bent toward the natural and organic, the locally produced and the exotic imports, and preparations that hide nothing. They are well suited to being accompanied by the broad selection of wines kept chilled at 61 degrees in their glass-walled "cellar" and displayed around the restaurant. But beyond the theme, the menu is "chef driven", meaning that the chef is free to create, customize, and present dishes that are unavailable anywhere, even in other members of Napa Valley's chain.

One of my favorites, the grilled portobello carpaccio, for instance, is Executive Chef Stuart Cameron's signature dish. It starts with wood-grilled portobello mushrooms, sliced thin like smoked salmon, stacked with arugula anointed with a delecate white truffle oil, and topped with shaved pecorino cheese. This vegetarian rendition of the Northern Italian dish typically made with beef makes an excellent choice for a mid-day snack somewhere between a salad and a main dish.

What wine goes with the carpaccio? Not being a regular wine drinker, I have to ask what wine goes with each dish, but that's not a problem at Napa Valley Grille. The 22-member waitstaff are under constant training, making each of them an expert on the nuances of wines and their flavors. It's not unusal to see managers Peter Gaudreau or Mark Phillips setting aside new wines for the staff to test. The training and coaching results in an atmosphere where empty glasses are not ignored, dropped forks are rapidly and cheerfully replaced, and restaurant patrons are treated as though their business is truly appreciated. "Whatever's right for the guest," says Gaudreau, a philosophy that carries through the attitudes of the entire staff. "You can't say 'no'."

If you ask your waiters what to have with the grilled peppered ostrich fan filet -- they're likely to suggest a glass of J'Lohr "Seven Oaks" cabernet, or maybe Bonnidoon "Pacific Rim" dry white Riesling wine. What's the perfect wine for their new warm grilled green salad steamed in balsamic vinaigrette over wood and tossed with olive oil croutons and dried cherry tomatoes? Well, it's a salad, despite its smokey flavor and warmth, so you're not likely to want a wine. But since they stock the wines of the major Napa Valley wineries and also small family vintages that are unavailable outside of their local areas, there are plenty to choose from. Maybe they'll suggest a Sangiovese, a California varietal wine.

Their ever-changing and seasonal menu means that there will always be something new to thrill over. I recently enjoyed their fennel crusted salmon. The name doesn't even begin to describe the wonderful light, flaky salmon served with toasted pearl-sized couscous, lightly kissed by a rosemary vinaigrette and adorned with curls of fresh fennel leaves.

Seafood from local suppliers, free range chicken often called "Amish" chicken have significant places on the menu. Beef dishes exist, but don't dominate the creative avenues for organic vegetables, fresh and exotic pastas, and cheeses that show their true character and variety.

"I'm cheese mad," says Chef Stuart. But so are the patrons of Napa Valley Grille, eating over 220 pounds a week as garnishes, on creative and unique pizzas, and within the restaurant's exotic and ever-changing artisan cheese plate alongside hand-chosen fruits and nuts. Fifty pounds of that weekly total is goat cheese from a local farm. Even the feta cheese is produced locally. "Wherever possible, we use local ingredients," he explains. But despite being cheese mad, he doesn't smother the foods in layers of melted cheese goo or consider cheese the default garnish for every dish.

Cheese is scarcely the only local ingredient you'll find on the menu. If you're looking for the very best organic produce at the local farm stands, you have to start looking early to beat Chef Cameron's buyers. Of course, if you're getting up early on Sunday, you might consider their Sunday brunch. Or if you're a wine neophyte and don't know the difference between Champagne and Chardonnay (or if you DO know and just love wine), you might enjoy one of their Wednesday evening wine tastings.

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I've always enjoyed my visits to Napa Valley Grille, no matter when it was. I recommend the restaurant for anyone who loves food, appreciates consistently great service, and understands the importance of the absolutely perfect glass of wine with a meal. It has my highest recommendation for a fancy-but-not-too-pricey meal after Waterfire, a great place to impress business associates, for a light up-scale meal while shopping at Providence Place, or for wine-lovers of all varieties.

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