Imagine yourself on an island. Not stranded, but almost. Wild rose-hip, lavender and briar cover rocky crags overlooking pristine coves and perfect little beaches. In the sun, you take shade beneath a thirty year old hickorys, maples and beechs. In the rain, ruins of an old fort provide fair shelter. There is no one else around, so feel free to walk around the eighty-one acres in your bare minimum, like a native. On the right weekend, maybe you'll catch music floating in the breeze from the Newport Jazz Festival or Folk Festival. Snorkel for starfish in deep, pristine coves.

This is paradise.

This is Dutch Island, in Narragansett Bay, Rhode Island.

If you're the kind of person who requires civilization, a bathroom, running water, or a convenience store / bar / restaurant within walking distance of your accommodation, stop here. I know how you feel. I used to be that kind of gal. And let's face it, it's usually the women who need the bathroom, particularly. But if you can do without modern convenience and relish a little peace and privacy, read on. It's worth it.

First off, you need a boat.

My traveling companions loaded up double roto-molded plastic kayaks (if you don't own one, there are several outfits nearby renting kayaks) with two days' worth of water for each person (two milk gallons apiece) camping supplies, firewood (you can burn the driftwood, but trust me, a Dura-flame sure comes in handy), pre-made meals (including my favorite – ziplock curry), and a couple of bottles of wine.

We found the put-in with no problem. There are actually two good departure points, depending on from which direction you come. We've done it both ways – from Jamestown, R.I. and from South Kingston. Personally I prefer coming in from South Kingstown, because the parking is better, and it's free (See end of article for directions and further information.) The first time we went, we left from Jamestown, which is recommended for novice paddlers or for folks with overloaded boats.

From the Jamestown put-in, at Fort Getty, we paddled out into a white-capped channel on a rainy July day. The weather was due to improve, so we headed out despite our fears of waves splashing over the rim into the kayaks. The gear we were carrying weighted the kayak down enough to make me worry, but once on the water we glided fairly easily through the chop, more gracefully than in a motor boat or a canoe.

Explore - Kayak In a Word Buy Kayaking Art Prints At AllPosters.com

Nonetheless, it took us forty minutes to go two miles due to the current, which was about 2 knots against us, and our not being able to get into a matching pattern of paddling (this can be treacherous in double-kayaking, and can cause bickering between even the fondest of friends.) Since that time we have paddled other areas of Narragansett Bay, much speedier, in separate kayaks, without bickering.

There is not a lot written about Dutch Island. Named Quotenis by the Narragansett Indians, it was later used for a Dutch trading post. The U.S. Government purchased acreage on the island in the 19th century, establishing a civil war encampment and later, Fort Greble, remnants of which stand like the lost city, camoflauged by thickets of briar and ivy.

While the facility never saw much activity, it was an impressive installation. Archeology enthusiasts will enjoy picking through the old foundations and gun emplacements. This was one activity I was looking forward to, and I stopped paddling to dig around in the cockpit for binoculars.

"Look, there's a tent." Indeed, directly across the channel, set up near the lighthouse, was a small tent. So, we wouldn't be alone after all. Still, it turned out not to be a problem, as there is plenty of island to go around even if all the campsites were taken.

We paddled South against the current so that the drift would drag us on a diagonal up to the island, but we were starting to overshoot and I was worried we'd be carried right up to Providence. We would paddle furiously, then take a moment to check our bearings, then paddle furiously again, so that we were on a zig- zagging tack which eventually ended us up at the place we wanted to be.

Again, since that first time, I have learned a bit about "contre-current" paddling, or tacking, and there are easier ways to do it. We could have saved ourselves some trouble and made one big up-current tack, then to drift back North to the island. Since the current is pretty predictable around the area, correlating with the tides and weather, we recommend getting the latest Eldridges' tide tables for the area (available through Amazon or B&N for about eight bucks.)

Finally, we got to the island. Near shore, the water was surprisingly calm. Gliding toward shore, I leaned back to watch a pair of cranes lift off from a high bluff.

"Let's check out over there." I said, pointing to a beach behind the bluff, and we paddled towards the small, pebbly beach. We landed, shook out, and congratulated ourselves on the crossing.

The part of the island where we landed is, in my opinion, the loveliest. Situated near the lighthouse with sweeping ocean views facing East, South, and West, are four or five rudimentary campsites signified by DEM markers and crude fire pits.

We chose a large grassy area on the path leading to the lighthouse, facing east toward Jamestown. The site we had wanted, on a beach below the lighthouse, was occupied by another group of kayakers. It didn't matter, though, because we had all the space and privacy in the world and incredible ocean views.

We set up camp, and then spent the rest of the day bushwhacking our way around the island. We explored old roads, battalions, an brick skeleton of the hospital, a tower, and several cellar holes. We walked along the beach looking for driftwood.

At four, we returned and had a swim in a clear, seaweed-free turquoise cove, soaking our briar-scratched limbs in the sea. Before dinner, we took a bottle of cabernet up to the lighthouse, enjoying 360 degree views from the high balcony, watching the sun go down over Saunderstown. That night, we slept to the sounds of foghorns and gulls, feeling very far away from Newport and it's summer hassles, though we were in actuality only three miles West.

Sunset Fires Winslow Homer Buy Other Maritime Paintings Art Prints At AllPosters.com

As the sun dipped low and red on the horizon, I watched the waves crash on the rocks thirty feet below and felt an exhileration close to epiphany.

If you go: Since my visit, there have been changes to Dutch Island, including renovation of the lighthouse and closure of the island to camping. Kayakers and canoeists are still welcome to land on the beach to picnic and explore all day long. Contact Rhode Island Department of Environmental Management for further information.

To Jamestown put in: From Newport, take Newport Bridge ($2 toll) over bridge to first exit, Jamestown. At end of exit, take left. Go one mile on East Shore Road to town. Take right at stop sign onto Narragansett Avenue. Take left on Southwest Avenue. Turn right onto Beavertail Road. Turn right onto Ft Getty Road. At Ft Getty, you will have to pay for overnight parking, but you can launch your kayak or canoe right from the beach.

For South Kingston put-in: Routes 1 and 138 join together at Tower Hill Road in South Kingstown. Take South Ferry Road from the Tower down towards the URI Bay campus. At the bottom of the hill is a beach with a small parking area. You can launch your kayak or canoe here. Overnight parking is available either in the Bay Campus parking lot or in the town lot above the beach.

About the author, Andy Janes: Andy Janes lives in Hopkinton, Rhode Island with her daughter Zoë. She writes primarily short fiction, and won the Armchair Sailors 1997 Sea Stories contest with her short story, Missing The Boat.

Johnson Landscaping Landscape design Renovation Maintenance greengiant84.net (401) 862-7202 Let our experts make your yard beautiful again!

Readers Comments About This Page:

Be the first! Add Your Comment!